STALKING THE WILD BUGLE BEAD
By Cara Greenberg

New York , Sunday, January 31, 1993

Priscilla Presley, Dinah Shore and Julie Andrews have bought outfits at St. Martin, a Seventh Avenue manufacturer of lavishly embellished eveningwear. On a recent Wednesday, 14 less famous women, part of Sarah Gardners wholesale shopping tour, had their turn.

Ms. Gardner, 4 feet 9 inches tall, stood on tiptoe in the hallway outside St. Martins 20 th floor showroom and gave a little speech about the tours second stop of the morning.

“Ladies!” She shouted. “This is the glamorous St. Martin , “she said. “It's your sequins and beaded, for your weddings, your Bar Mitzvahs, all your special occasions. You have 30 minutes!”

The group was ushered into a back room with racks of colorful bolero jackets covered with sequins and others decorated with glass and wooden beads in patterns reminiscent of oriental rugs. They were $210 each; some sell at retail up to $1000.

Novelty clothing was marked 50 percent to 90 percent off retail prices. There was a shaped sheath dress made of burlap with brown beaded spaghetti straps ($100) and bomber jackets with automobile insignia rendered in sequins ($200 and up).

Debbie Rubin, a secretary at a computer company in Manhattan , flipped through a rack of beaded dresses, trying to think of a occasion that might require one. “I have a couple of singles friends who might be getting married soon, “she said.

The previous stop on the tour, Whittall Shon, a sportswear manufacturer, had also been heavy on the sequins. Gene Marcier and Linda Donnelly, who work at a company that supplies workers for trade shows, tried on flat – brimmed hats with sequined crowns and fake leopard headband ($20). “ I went crazy at Whittall & Shon, (Ms. Marcier said, showing a gold and black T-shirt and leggings set with a sequined dolphin on the shirt ($50).

In addition to running shopping tours of the Garment District, Ms. Gardner, whose office is in Borough Park , Brooklyn , publishes Fashion Update, a quarterly newsletter about showroom sample sales. Manufacturer showrooms are not normally open to the public.

With their subscription ($54 a year), customers get access to a toll-free information line. “They can call us and say, Sarah, where can I get a Fendi handbag?” She said. “And, I'll tell them where they can get one for $75 that in the stores would be $500. A real Fendi!”

Ms Gardner, 34 began the business five years ago. “It grew out of wanting to save money on clothing, “She said. Her shopping tours last two and a half to three hours and include stops at up to five showrooms of eveningwear, sportswear, career outfits, children's clothing, furs, leather and accessories. The tours cost $50 per person, or $25 a person for a group of more than 15.

“The next place we are going is Chris Kellogg,” she announced to the group. “It's your women's separates, your careerwear. The fun thing about Chris Kellogg is the prices here are $15 - $60.”

Joyce Croak, who creates incentive plans for the travel industry, tried on a red Kellogg blazer and pleated skirt that look classier than their combined prices of $90.” This is a Calvin Klein inspiration, “Ms. Gardner said.

Ms. Gardner looked like an urban Bo Peep as she led her flock through traffic to the next stop, a street-level jewelry wholesaler on Fifth Avenue . “Everybody!” She yelled. This is the fabulous Bijoux Terner! Don't get scared when you see $20 on an item. It's really $10. Everything is 50 percent off.”

There were two floors of custom jewelry, including earrings, necklaces and bracelets made of pearls, rhinestones and Austrian crystal. “You've got your Channel – inspired, “said Ms. Gardner, dangling a gold coin belt. “You've got your Cartier, you've got your Bulgari.”

With 8500 items from which to choose, everyone seemed overwhelmed but there was no rush. At noon, Ms. Gardner said; “this is where the shopping tour ends, ladies. After this, your on your own.” Tour participants were now free to visit the showrooms of any of the 50 advertisers in the Fashion Update newsletter.

People want prices under $100. Ms. Gardner says. “The truth is, nobody wants to spend much money, “she added. Information about the tours is available from Fashion Update, 1274 49 th St., Suite 209 , Brooklyn , and NY 11209; 212-415-6500.